FRANCE 2004
8/14/2004
11/13/2004

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FRANCE 2004 — Continued

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Autoire


 
My camera was a bit lazy in the mountainside village of Autoire, even though it is one of the officially designated Les Plus Beaux Villages de France (Most Beautiful Villages of France), but this picturesque house against the high limestone cliffs caught my eye. (Another is Loubressac, which we visited, but I did not take any good pictures there.)
An excellent dinner of crêpes made Autoire especially memorable. I wrote down the name of the delicious confection that I had for dessert, which was something like a large, flat, cakey muffin with embedded fruits: flaugnarde aux fruits sur coulis de framboises. However, my otherwise reliable crib sheet, Langenscheidt's Pocket Menu Reader for France, let me down on a translation for that one.

Carennac


 
Lovely Carennac, a beautiful town on the beautiful river Dordogne, was our destination on my last day. Carennac is yet another of the Most Beautiful Villages.
And my first destination in Carennac was the public toilettes, there behind that white door. Without a doubt, it was the most gorgeous setting for a restroom that I have ever seen. (The restroom itself was perfectly ordinary, or maybe even a little less than that. In general I would say this about the public restrooms I saw in France: they’re for people who are really sincere about wanting to use them.)
 
So here is a view of the Dordogne from the steps in front of the toilettes.
 
And—here come the ducks.
 
At last. “Coin, coin.”
The fiftteenth-century abbey of Carennac is famous for its Romanesque architecture. Click the picture for a larger view.
The carved frieze at the entrance to the abbey. Click the picture for a larger view. The abbey is undergoing restoration. Inside, ancient frescoes are all but obliterated by mold and mildew.
Forecourt of the abbey. Janet is looking toward the entrance with the frieze, which is flush with the wall to the right.
To my left as I was taking the preceding photo was just this door in an otherwise undistinguished wall of the forecourt. Just an old door. This is the third of my three favorite pictures. Click the picture to see this one enlarged.
 
 
Dinner in Carennac. A toast: vive la France.


Gare d
’Austerlitz, Paris

 
My first and last nights in France, I stayed at the Hotel Libertel, a funky little hole-in-the-wall whose main asset is its location—this close to the Gare d’Austerlitz, the train station from which we traveled via railway (SNCF) between Paris and Gramat, nearest stop to the farm. This picture was taken from the front door of the hotel, on the Boulevard de l’Hopital.
Looking left from just in front of the hotel. The traffic speed and noise on this street defy description. The next light, down there where you see the farthest cars, is at a bridge that crosses the Seine. It was an easy stroll from the hotel down to the riverbank to watch Parisians dance the warm summer night away.
The neighborhood of the station and the hotel, though very unexceptional, is heavily trafficked and feels both decent and safe. There was really nothing there to take pictures of, but I took them anyway. No major-sights-of-Paris tours on this trip.
One sidewalk cafe after another up and down the street offers good, basic French fare at reasonable prices. Taking the city and the countryside together, I don’t believe I had more than one indoor restaurant meal the whole trip, and that one was only halfway indoors.
Why is there is a busy McDonald’s right at the next corner? I have no idea.
Somewhat bemused by my fifth-floor view of the back streets, I took this sunset-over-Paris photo as my last recorded image of my trip to France.
   

 
 
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